Visitors who time things right can see that scene on the big screen at the city’s art-nouveau Cinema Fulgor, which shows Amarcord at least once every three weeks. I almost expected a perfect peacock to settle on the Renaissance fountain, as it does in Amarcord.
I watched as a monochrome man shuffled past, all in grey but for a multicoloured scarf like a beacon in a black-and-white print. Sadly, Fellini’s favourite bar is now an H&M but there are plenty of other places to sit and gaze at the world with a Fellinian eye. And when Stanley Kubrick was asked for a list of his favourite films, he put I Vitelloni at number one. His episodic, carnivalesque style has been cited as an influence by directors including Martin Scorsese, George Lucas, Sofia Coppola and Pedro Almodóvar. Some were traditional, with older men deep into their newspapers others were very much of the 21st century, such as La Hora Feliz, where a cocktail and an all-you-can-eat apericena buffet of mussels, beans, prosciutto, ricotta, meat, fish and pastas costs €11.įellini’s masterpieces frequently feature in lists of the top films of all time but his stature rests also on his impact. Tempio Malatestiano Photograph: Gilberto Urbinatiįrom Piazza Cavour, I wandered down the arcaded former fish market - its thick stone slabs now flower stalls and meeting spots – to a cluster of cafes and restaurants. This year, Rimini will be celebrating its most famous son in a way that will leave a lasting legacy. He didn’t do any shooting here, but lovingly reconstructed his home town at the Cinecittà studios in Rome, and found surrogate stretches of beach just outside the capital. The city, or his memories of it, has a starring role in several of his films – Amarcord (local dialect for “I Remember”) and I Vitelloni (The Layabouts) in particular, but appears in scenes in many others. I explored “his” city, including its Old Town, where Fellini grew up, taking in history and architecture that spans Roman to Renaissance, art nouveau to right-about-now in its compact, wanderable streets.įellini was born 100 years ago this month and spent his first 19 years in Rimini. The visionary behind La Dolce Vita and 8½ is regarded by fans and critics as one of the world’s greatest film-makers. R imini is best-known for its vast swathe of Adriatic beach – and as the birthplace of revered film director Federico Fellini.
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